V&A Stages First UK Retrospective of Elsa Schiaparelli, Celebrating Her as Artist and Impresario
The Victoria and Albert Museum in London is set to open a blockbuster exhibition dedicated to Elsa Schiaparelli, the Italian designer renowned for her surrealist and moment-making approach to fashion. Titled "Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art," this retrospective aims to reposition Schiaparelli not merely as a couturier but as an influential image-maker and culture creator whose impact resonates through decades.
From 1930s Surrealism to Modern Viral Moments
The exhibition features over 400 objects, including iconic designs like the skeleton dress created with Salvador Dalí in 1938 and an evening coat designed with Jean Cocteau in 1937. These pieces highlight Schiaparelli's collaborations with artists, which she leveraged for publicity, akin to modern social media strategies. Sonnet Stanfill, the V&A's senior fashion curator, notes, "She was a good designer but a great self-publicist and promoter. Working with artists like Cocteau was her way to capture attention, much like viral campaigns today."
Daniel Roseberry's Modern Revival and Cultural Impact
In recent years, artistic director Daniel Roseberry has revitalized the Schiaparelli brand, blending wit and wearability in designs that echo Elsa's spirit. Notable examples include Kylie Jenner's lion head dress in 2023 and Bella Hadid's lung-shaped necklace at Cannes in 2021, which have propelled the house into viral ubiquity. Roseberry explains, "Elsa was our north star. She wasn't just a dressmaker; she created culture, and we strive to walk that fine line between humour and camp in our collections."
Exhibition Details and Broader Cultural Significance
Scheduled to open on 28 March, the exhibition also includes intimate items such as a wedding dress from a Golders Green synagogue and leopard print booties Schiaparelli cherished. It underscores her influence on designers like Martin Margiela and Rei Kawakubo, with Stanfill adding, "It's easy to focus on the weirdness, but she made wearable clothes with a twist, like strange buttons or anatomical details." The V&A hopes to draw crowds similar to its successful Dior exhibition, capitalizing on Roseberry's work that deepens cultural awareness of the once-dormant fashion house.
