A restaurant that confidently offers a Prego steak sandwich for pudding is a place that understands true indulgence. Why settle for a sweet finale when you can have a classic Portuguese sandwich, featuring a rare-cooked fillet steak slathered in mustard inside a soft white roll? This bold move is just the beginning at Lilibet's, the dazzling new Mayfair establishment that consistently delights and surprises.
A Room of High-Camp Glamour
First impressions are unforgettable. The dining room is vast and unapologetically extravagant, a high-camp fusion that evokes the opulence of a fin-de-siècle Parisian salon and the dramatic flair of an 1980s boudoir. It's a lavish, louche, and utterly lovely space. Monogrammed napkins, gleaming marble floors, and swathes of expensive floral fabrics set the scene. Service is immaculate and understated, moving with the quiet purr of a classic Bentley, while the lighting is designed to flatter and cosset every guest.
Located at 17 Bruton Street in London W1, the site holds historical significance as the birthplace of the late Queen Elizabeth II, for whom the restaurant is named. One might fear a stuffy, traditional tribute, but Lilibet's is anything but. The revelation that the culinary force behind it is Ross Shonhan – former executive chef at Nobu and Zuma, and founder of Bone Daddies – signals the exciting direction.
Sexy, Precise Seafood Cooking
Shonhan's signature style – clean, precise, and fun – is evident throughout a menu that is predominantly seafood and irresistibly alluring. Dishes inspire immediate wanderlust, like booking a last-minute trip to Paris. Standouts include fire-roasted oysters enriched with aged beef fat, where the shellfish's natural sweetness is elevated by a deep, bovine richness. Exceptionally sweet langoustines and pristine toro tuna in a sharply acidic gazpacho sauce showcase the quality of produce.
For more substantial plates, the baked rice with Spanish prawns is a masterpiece of soft, stock-soaked grains. A show-stopping fried crab thermidor, served in a silver crab shell, is described as being as rich as a Mayfair widow, boasting an outrageously creamy sauce that surpasses the traditional lobster version.
Unsung Heroes and Accessible Luxury
In a thoughtful touch, a menu section titled 'Unsung Heroes' celebrates underrated seafood like cod’s head and gurnard. Furthermore, Lilibet's delivers a dose of accessible luxury in an exclusive postcode with its excellent-value £34 three-course set lunch menu – a relative miracle for Mayfair. With prices starting at around £60 per head for the à la carte experience, the restaurant positions itself as an exquisitely gilded delight.
More than just a dining room, Lilibet's is a full-bodied experience. It delivers serious, accomplished cooking that doesn't take itself too seriously, each plate seasoned with a knowing wink. It is a triumphant and glamorous addition to London's culinary landscape.
