Caledonian Sleeper Review: Birmingham to Scottish Highlands Overnight Adventure
Just one overnight train journey from a major English city transports travellers to a realm of spectacular scenery, deserted beaches, and cascading waterfalls. Features Writer Kirsty Bosley recently embarked on this voyage, describing it as "one of the most magical days of her entire life." The previous evening, she had been trapped in gridlock at Birmingham's Five Ways island, stressed about potentially missing the Caledonian Sleeper – the train that lulls passengers to sleep in the Midlands and awakens them in the heart of the Scottish Highlands.
Journey and Arrival
Securing a ticket for the 10-hour overnight service from Birmingham to Inverness, Bosley arrived in Scotland with approximately 12 hours to explore before her pre-booked return departure. Her mission was straightforward: to evaluate whether the recently extended Caledonian Sleeper service from Birmingham merits booking. Determined to maximise her limited time, she aimed to experience family-friendly attractions, hiking trails, intimate spots for couples, and tranquil wilderness areas – all while spending minimal money.
Surviving on Tunnocks Teacakes, Irn Bru, and portable snacks grabbed en route, her largest expense proved the most worthwhile: a pre-paid £42 hire car from Enterprise. After a brisk 15-minute walk from Inverness station, she collected the vehicle and embarked on an ambitious mission to circumnavigate the entirety of Loch Ness (approximately 70 miles) in a single day.
Loch Ness Exploration
Fuelled by just £15, Bosley accomplished her goal with a clockwise journey around the loch. The adventure began with tears of joy as Loch Ness unveiled itself perfectly timed to Taylor Swift's Cruel Summer bridge playing through the car speakers. Pulling over to dance roadside under the rising sun, she felt brimming with anticipation for the perfect day ahead.
Her first destination was the Loch Ness Clansman Hotel to see the plaque commemorating Ozzy Osbourne's nocturnal escapades searching for Nessie with his son. Driving through the Highlands felt less like a chore and more like a pleasure with constant breathtaking backdrops. In Drumnadrochit, at the hotel where monster tales originated, she made her second largest purchase: £15 entry to The Loch Ness Centre, narrated entirely by David Tennant.
Mysteries and Masterclasses
The centre provided a masterclass in Loch Ness lore, delving into the origins of rumours, the ensuing frenzy, the area's history and geography, and Scottish myths that lent credibility to the monster tale. Visitors discover fascinating science explaining why it's impossible to definitively prove there isn't a creature lurking in waters so deep that all freshwater from every lake, reservoir, and river in England and Wales combined couldn't fill it.
Following this revelation, Bosley found herself scrutinising the water more intently, half-convinced Nessie might genuinely appear. The sense of wonder sparked by the centre justified the entrance fee entirely, enhancing every subsequent free activity with newfound knowledge.
Castles and Enchanted Woodlands
Reaching Urquhart Castle in remarkably quick time – a military ruin positioned directly on the water's edge – she decided to save the £16 walk-up admission for another visit, now absolutely convinced she'd be returning. Boat excursions can transport visitors there, immediately added to her 'to-do' list.
Pressing on along the waterside A82 towards Invermoriston, she discovered a place that appears lifted straight from an adventure film. The Old Bridge spanning the thundering falls of the River Moriston resembles something from a fairy tale. Despite being on the renowned Great Glen Way trail, it felt like a mystical secret with remarkably few other visitors present.
Parking up (free, though donations appreciated as with many public toilets along the route), she embarked on a woodland stroll, pausing at the historic Summer House Victorian folly to soak in surroundings where salmon once battled upstream. Meandering through spongy clusters of radiant white reindeer lichen, observing rapids and watching for squirrels, she felt profound tranquillity wash over her. "It's a must-visit spot for any traveller," she noted, wishing every Brummie could experience it.
Breathtaking Vistas and Wildlife
By 2pm, having covered half the loch's circumference in just four hours, she reached the South Shore. Rounding the southernmost point revealed a view so breathtaking from the Suidhe Viewpoint that she had to pull over. Another family of tourists arrived, and though few words were exchanged, their shared silence spoke volumes about the unforgettable, life-affirming moment they were experiencing.
The wild beauty proved almost overwhelming as the journey continued. A majestic stag turned to regard their car, creating a scene straight from a special shortbread tin illustration. Overhead, giant birds, possibly including golden eagles, soared majestically.
Waterfalls and Dusk Adventures
The next stop was the Falls of Foyers, a spectacular 140ft waterfall nestled within a forest inhabited by elusive red squirrels. Tunnocks Teacakes and Irn Bru proved insufficient fuel for the challenging descent down steep steps, but the Waterfall Cafe offered sausage rolls and snacks to revive weary travellers.
With daylight fading, they passed Boleskine House (former residence of Aleister Crowley and Led Zeppelin's Jimmy Page), which was shut, before seeking out a man discovered at The Loch Ness Centre. Steve Feltham, a renowned 'Nessie Hunter' who abandoned his family business, relationship, and Dorset home in 1991 to live on the loch's shores, represents someone leaving behind what doesn't fulfil them to pursue desired life.
Farewell and Future Plans
Reaching his modest dwelling as skies transformed colours above Dores Beach, they found him absent. The pebbled shoreline proved magnificent, surroundings breathtaking. Bosley pondered whether Steve might welcome a new neighbour, though Birmingham beckoned for this account's completion.
Both Steve and Nessie remained beyond reach – only one possessing confirmed existence but both surrounded by legends worth further exploration. Returning to relinquish the rental car and hop back on what she'll forever dub the 'Loch Ness Express,' they bid farewell physically but not spiritually.
Convinced her spirit remained in Invermoriston still hunting red squirrels, Bosley plans to retrieve it on the next available Caledonian Sleeper journey. This time, she'll be sure to pack sandwiches.
