Susie Cave Announces Fashion Comeback with Exclusive New Label
Fashion designer Susie Cave has revealed her return to the industry with a new exclusive label, marking a significant comeback following the closure of her celebrated brand The Vampire's Wife in 2024. The 59-year-old model and designer will launch Susie Cave Weddings & Funerals, operating from an appointment-only boutique in Kensington.
Exclusive New Venture with Unusual Name
Speaking to Vogue about her new venture's distinctive name, Cave explained: 'Like my brand The Vampire's Wife, which was subversive, funny and mischievous, its name is not literally a description of what it is.' Unlike her previous widely available collections, this new label will offer exclusive access through her Kensington shop, where customers can browse black-and-white demi-couture pieces.
The initial collection comprises 25 made-to-order garments, all customizable with various elements including capes, trains, veils, and embellishments. This represents a more intimate approach compared to her previous brand's broader retail presence.
The Vampire's Wife's Demise and Pandemic Impact
The Vampire's Wife, founded in 2014 by Susie Cave and Alex Adamson, ceased trading in 2024 after a decade of operation. The brand struggled to recover from pandemic-related challenges and faced difficulties repaying outstanding tax debts. Company filings revealed taxation and social security liabilities had grown significantly, reaching £543,930 by the end of 2022.
An HMRC spokesperson stated: 'We take a supportive approach to dealing with customers who have tax debts and only file winding-up petitions once we've exhausted all other options, in order to protect taxpayers' money.' The company reported the petition came without prior warning and that HMRC had rejected requests for a payment plan arrangement.
Personal Tragedy and Fashion as Salvation
Cave's fashion journey has been deeply intertwined with personal tragedy. Following the death of her 15-year-old son Arthur in 2015, who fell from a cliff near their Brighton home, Cave became bedridden with grief. She told her husband Nick: 'Everything is over. The Vampire's Wife is over. Everything is over.'
However, fashion ultimately became her salvation. Three months after Arthur's death, a request from model Daisy Lowe for a dress prompted Cave's return to work. 'I dragged myself into the office to find the red fabric. And she wore it. And I saw it photographed. That was kind of a breakthrough,' Cave recalled. 'From then on I went to work every day. Having something to do which was physically demanding enabled me temporarily not to think of anything else.'
In 2018, she explained to the Mail: 'I struggle with certain things that have happened in my life and sometimes can be in quite a dark place. I get lost when I'm designing. Time just flies by. It's actually an absolute gift, because the worst thing happened to me. I channel any positive energy I can into creating clothes.'
Royal and Celebrity Following
The Vampire's Wife developed a cult following among A-list celebrities and royalty before its closure. The Princess of Wales first wore the brand in 2021, donning a £1,595 emerald gown for an evening reception in Dublin. She later wore a pink metallic dress from the label during a royal tour of the Caribbean.
Princess Beatrice wore a £1,695 'The Veneration' tiered silk-blend lamé dress to Ellie Goulding's wedding, while three guests wore Vampire's Wife garments at Prince Harry and Meghan Markle's 2018 wedding. Other notable clients included model Alexa Chung, actress Elisabeth Moss, singer Florence Welch, Rachel Weisz, Hilary Duff, and Meena Harris, niece of US Vice President Kamala Harris.
Business Growth and Eventual Challenges
As celebrity endorsements grew, The Vampire's Wife expanded to prestigious retailers including Selfridges and Harrods. Styles ranged from £970 velvet dresses to £1,595 glittery party frocks, frequently selling out. However, the coronavirus pandemic ultimately proved devastating for the business, as shoppers saved money and reduced spending on occasion wear.
Reflecting on the brand's closure, Cave wrote: 'Due to factors beyond our control, The Vampire's Wife is closing its doors. I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to all of you who have supported us here at The Vampire's Wife. It has been a deep privilege to be a part of this magical thing – a project that quite literally saved my life.'
Despite the brand's demise, Cave expressed relief: 'I was relieved it was all over. Past experiences have built a resilience and inner strength that leaves little room for ordinary apprehensions.' This resilience now fuels her new venture, Susie Cave Weddings & Funerals, marking her determined return to the fashion world she credits with helping her through profound personal loss.
