Retracing Grandma's Footsteps: A Modern Hike on Historic Ben Nevis
After stumbling upon a crate of memorabilia belonging to her grandmother, Constance Mary Ryder, known as Connie, Rachel Ifans felt a deep connection to a past she had never fully known. The photo album revealed a vibrant young woman in the 1930s, training as a midwife, driving an Austin 7 motor car, and embarking on adventurous hikes across Scotland's most stunning landscapes, including Glencoe, Glen Nevis, The Trossachs, and Loch Lomond.
Intrigued by images of Connie and her friend Blye climbing mountains in remote areas with minimal gear and no modern technology, Rachel decided to lace up her own hiking boots and retrace those historic steps. With a photo of Connie triumphantly standing at the summit of Ben Nevis tucked safely in her pocket, she set off for Scotland, determined to understand her grandmother's fearless spirit.
The Legacy of Women in the Outdoors
Upon arriving in Scotland, Rachel connected with Keri Wallace, founder of Girls on Hills, who highlighted that Connie was, and to some extent remains, an anomaly in the world of outdoor exploration. "Even though societal norms have changed, there are still soft barriers to women getting out on the hills," Wallace explained. These barriers range from confidence and navigation skills to more specific issues like toileting outdoors and managing menstrual cycles.
However, Wallace noted positive trends, such as increased representation and support for women in outdoor activities. This shift is reflected in initiatives like the Door to Door Challenge, a collaboration between Girls on Hills and Hostelling Scotland, featuring 16 trail and hill routes starting from hostel doors. Research from Brittany Ferries shows a 62% increase in searches for "female solo travel" over the past three years, with 84% of solo travellers today being women, signaling a growing trend toward autonomy and self-discovery.
Following the Trail in Glen Nevis
Rachel's journey began in Glen Nevis, a rustic brown valley near Fort William. Starting from a modern youth hostel with ensuite rooms and wood-burning fires, she chose a trail from the Door to Door Challenge booklet that led toward the summit of Ben Nevis. Although her hike only reached halfway to the top of Meall an t-Suidhe, she pondered whether the boulders beneath her feet were the same ones Connie had traversed nearly a century ago.
As she scaled the final 100 meters through spongy heather, sleet and snow began to fall, leaving her legs feeling like jelly. Alone except for a deer making a graceful descent, Rachel took a hurried selfie before retreating, marveling at how Connie had navigated Ben Nevis in leather shoes during heavy snowfall.
Embracing Remote Hostelling at Loch Ossian
For her second night, Rachel opted for Loch Ossian Youth Hostel, a basic, remote facility accessible only by train and foot, reminiscent of 1930s hostelling experiences. After a train ride from Fort William to Corrour station and a 30-minute hike in driving rain, she arrived at the squat corrugated building by the loch. With enough daylight left, she completed a 12km trail around Loch Ossian before joining fellow travellers for dinner.
The group included a student in a sodden woollen coat, a mother-daughter pair, two teachers on a cycling holiday, an older wanderer, and Catrina, the hostel warden. They shared stories of daring adventures and harsh Scottish weather, helping to winch a wooden airer above an open fire to dry their gear, hoping it would be ready by morning.
Conquering a Munro and Reflecting on Progress
Waking to blue skies and a crystal-clear loch, Rachel embarked on a mission to bag her first Munro, hiking 7.5km to the top of Beinn Na Lap with 557 meters of elevation. The challenging climb featured boggy terrain and near-vertical ascents, culminating in a windy, rocky summit where she rested in a stone shelter, admiring distant peaks like Scheihallion.
For her final night, Rachel indulged in a stay at Mar Hall, a luxurious five-star hotel on the banks of the Clyde with mountain views. After exploring its 240-acre estate as active recovery, she enjoyed spa treatments and a prime Perthshire steak dinner. Reflecting on the contrast with Connie's experiences, Rachel acknowledged the progress over 90 years, noting that her grandmother's party-loving spirit would have fit right in among the celebrities who have stayed there, including a Gallagher brother, Kylie, Jay Z, and Beyoncé.
Rachel's trip was supported by Hostelling Scotland and Mar Hall, blending historic inspiration with modern comforts in a heartfelt tribute to her grandmother's adventurous legacy.
