The Trouser Turn-Up Trend: A Sartorial Revival
Roll up, roll up – the trouser turn-up is back in vogue, making waves from celebrity red carpets to high-fashion runways. This classic styling trick, which involves cuffing the hem of trousers, has resurfaced as a simple yet effective way to elevate an outfit in seconds. However, achieving the perfect turn-up requires more than just a quick fold; it demands attention to detail and an understanding of fabric and fit.
Celebrity and Fashion Week Influence
From Harry Styles sporting pinstripe trousers with turn-ups at the Brit Awards to actor Chase Infiniti showcasing the look at Paris Fashion Week, this trend is gaining momentum. In JW Anderson's latest collection for Uniqlo, hefty turn-ups feature prominently on baggy blue and ecru jeans, as well as olive-green track trousers, highlighting its versatility across different styles.
Preppy labels have long embraced turn-ups as a staple. For instance, Alex Mill, a brand adjacent to J Crew, showcases turned-up jeans paired with vibrant accessories like purple loafers and pink socks on its website. At John Lewis, the range of turn-ups varies from pencil-thin cuffs to deeper, more substantial folds, catering to diverse fashion preferences.
Expert Insights on the Trend
Aurora Benson, a branded womenswear buying manager at John Lewis, notes a significant shift toward turn-ups among street stylers at recent fashion weeks. She explains, "It's a simple way to update existing denim, adding immediate visual interest to an outfit without the need for extra layers." This trend aligns with the resurgence of other preppy elements, such as Sperry Top-Siders and rugby shirts, drawing from a playbook that adds a touch of New England scruffy-glamour to fashion.
Historically, turn-ups have roots in British royalty, with King Edward VII reportedly rolling up his trousers at Ascot, ensuring their enduring appeal. Muffy Aldrich, editor of the blog Salt Water New England: The Thing Before Preppy, emphasises their timeless nature, stating, "As with everything preppy, cuffs are returned to because they are perfect. They just work, like Delft tiles or a Latin quote."
Mastering the Turn-Up Technique
Despite their apparent ease, perfecting turn-ups involves careful consideration. According to Melanie Wilkinson, styling editor at the Guardian, success hinges on factors like fit and fabric. She advises, "The ideal shape is a close-fitting straight leg or a slightly tapered leg. If jeans are too wide, the turn-up will flap about and fall down." Additionally, the quality of denim matters; stiff selvedge fabric holds the shape better than high-street styles with elastane.
Somsack Sikhounmuong, creative director of Alex Mill, recommends a cuff of about one inch, while Aldrich suggests 1.5 inches as closer to perfect. This detail allows trousers to be both crisp and functional, with the weight of the cuffs helping them look straight and presentable, even in casual settings like boating or fieldwork.
Why Turn-Ups Are Trending Again
The resurgence of turn-ups is linked to broader fashion cycles. Sikhounmuong explains, "Everything in fashion is connected – after seasons of noteworthy footwear, it makes sense to roll up your pants and show off those shoes." Aldrich adds that turn-ups often go out of style due to cost-cutting measures by clothing companies or when designers make them overly flashy, which contradicts the preppy ethos of understated elegance.
Ultimately, a well-executed turn-up offers a distinctive look that resists trendiness. Aldrich concludes, "Since getting cuffs done the right size represents a bit of an effort these days, they give a distinctive look without most people being able to pinpoint why." This subtlety is key to their enduring appeal in the ever-evolving world of fashion.
