Aktar Islam's Mutton Rogan Josh and Keema Pau Recipes
Mutton, a mature and flavourful meat, often goes overlooked in modern cooking, yet it offers a depth and richness that younger cuts cannot match. Its robust character makes it ideal for slow-cooked dishes like curries and stews, where it beautifully absorbs spices and aromatics. Unlike lamb, mutton is naturally sustainable and provides a complex taste that enhances traditional recipes. While not commonly found in supermarkets, it can be sourced from butchers, especially halal ones, or ordered online.
Rogan Josh: A Kashmiri Curry with Mutton
This classic Kashmiri curry is typically made with lamb, but chef Aktar Islam prefers mutton neck for its superior flavour. The dish involves a spiced yoghurt base and slow cooking to tenderise the meat.
Preparation Time: 20 minutes
Cooking Time: Over 3 hours
Serves: 4
For the Spiced Yoghurt:
- 250ml full-fat yoghurt
- 1½ tsp ground fennel seeds (toast about 1¼ tsp fennel seeds, then grind)
- 1 tsp ground ginger
- 6 saffron strands
- 1 tbsp ground coriander
- 1 tsp mild red chilli powder (preferably deggi mirch)
- ¼ tsp ground turmeric
For the Rogan Josh:
- 6 tbsp ghee
- 4 whole black cardamom pods
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 5 cloves
- 1½kg bone-in mutton neck, cut into 5cm chunks
- Salt and black pepper
- 1 tbsp garlic paste (optional)
- 1 tbsp ginger paste (optional)
- 1 tbsp caramelised onion puree
- 1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli paste
- 1 litre hot lamb stock or boiling water
- Chopped fresh coriander, to finish
Mix the spiced yoghurt ingredients in a bowl and set aside. In a casserole, melt ghee over medium heat, add black cardamom, peppercorns, and cloves, and cook until fragrant. Add mutton and salt, sauté for 10-15 minutes until browned. Stir in garlic and ginger pastes if using, cook for two minutes, then add onion and chilli pastes, cooking for another five minutes. Incorporate the yoghurt mix, simmer until fat separates, add stock, cover, and cook on low heat for 2-2.5 hours until tender. Uncover, increase heat to reduce sauce, season, and garnish with coriander. Serve with rice, naan, or rotis.
Keema Pau: Spicy Mutton Street Food
This popular Indian street food features a spicy mutton mince curry served in buttered pau rolls, offering a quick and flavourful meal.
Preparation Time: 15 minutes
Cooking Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
Serves: 4
For the Green Paste:
- 2-3 ice cubes
- 1 generous handful fresh coriander
- 20 mint leaves
- 3 green chillies, stalks discarded
- 1 tbsp coriander seeds
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 3 green cardamom pods
- 1 black cardamom pod
- 10 black peppercorns
For the Keema:
- 100ml neutral vegetable oil
- 2 onions, peeled and diced
- Salt
- 5 tbsp ginger and garlic paste
- ½ tsp turmeric powder
- 2 tsp mild chilli powder (preferably deggi mirch)
- 3 tbsp ground coriander
- 1 tbsp ground cumin
- 1kg mutton mince
- 150ml yoghurt, whisked
- 300g frozen petit pois
- 3-4 green chillies, slit open lengthways
To Finish:
- 1-2 tbsp butter or ghee
- 1 tbsp kasuri methi (ground dried fenugreek leaves)
- 1 tsp garam masala
- 1 big handful roughly chopped fresh coriander
- 4 pau or brioche buns, halved, buttered, and toasted
Blend green paste ingredients until smooth. Heat oil in a pan, cook onions with salt for 15 minutes until golden. Add ginger and garlic paste, cook for 3-4 minutes, then stir in turmeric, chilli powder, ground coriander, and cumin. Add mutton mince, sauté for 10 minutes until coloured, then mix in yoghurt and cook for five minutes until oil separates. Stir in green paste, simmer for 15-20 minutes, add peas and chillies, cook for 20 minutes more. Finish with butter, kasuri methi, and garam masala, season, garnish with coriander, and serve in toasted rolls or with flatbreads.
Aktar Islam, chef and owner of Opheem in Birmingham, showcases these recipes to celebrate mutton's versatility. His new venture, Oudh 1722, is set to open in London this spring, further promoting traditional Indian cuisine.
