Ping Coombes' Rice Revolution: Elevating a Humble Staple to Culinary Art
Rice, often dismissed as a mere side dish in Western kitchens, is celebrated as a cornerstone of culinary tradition by Ping Coombes, the Malaysian-born chef and MasterChef 2014 champion. In her latest cookbook, aptly titled Rice, Coombes argues that this basic ingredient demands respect and precision, transforming it from an afterthought into the centrepiece of meals.
The Cultural and Personal Significance of Rice
Coombes, now 44, reflects on her upbringing in Ipoh, Malaysia, where rice was consumed at least twice daily. "In the West, rice is an afterthought. Cook something, and you would say, 'Should I have pasta or potatoes, or rice, microwavable rice and just bang it on," she observes. "Whereas in the East, we do it every day." Her deep connection to rice is evident; she even experiences withdrawal symptoms when deprived of it, as during a holiday in Spain where she sought out a Chinese restaurant for a comforting bowl of fried rice.
Having published her debut cookbook a decade ago, Coombes has since established Ping’s Masak Club cookery school and Ping’s Makan Club supper club. Despite her success, she maintains a simple philosophy: "I only cook what I love to eat." This principle guides her latest work, which emphasises the artistry and labour involved in rice cultivation, reminding home cooks of its value beyond mere sustenance.
Mastering the Art of Rice Cooking: Essential Techniques
Coombes' book is replete with practical advice to help cooks achieve perfect rice every time. She advocates for the absorption method, particularly for jasmine rice, her preferred variety. "As a rule, it’s one to one-and-a-half. Or, if you’re putting in a microwave, one to one," she explains, cautioning against common errors like incorrect water ratios. Brown rice, she notes, requires more water and patience due to its higher fibre content.
A key mistake many make is draining rice after cooking. "For me, it’s a definite no-no," Coombes asserts. "Because you drain all the nutrients away." Instead, she recommends letting rice rest for 20 to 30 minutes post-cooking to enhance texture and digestibility. "You taste everything more when the rice is warm and it’s just the right temperature," she adds.
For efficiency, Coombes suggests cooking extra rice and freezing it in portioned packets. "I have a rice drawer. Every time I make a certain type of rice, I make five times the amount," she shares, offering a homemade alternative to instant packets. Safety is paramount; she advises cooling rice promptly before refrigeration to mitigate bacterial risks.
Selecting Quality Rice and Recipe Highlights
When choosing rice, Coombes recommends looking for quality indicators. For jasmine rice, "triple A" from Thailand is ideal, while basmati from Pakistan or India should feature long grains for superior quality. "The longer the basmati grain, the higher the quality," she notes.
Her book includes recipes that showcase rice's versatility, such as Baked Honey and Soy Chicken Rice, a one-pot dish enriched with lentils and sweetcorn. Another standout is Crispy Bangkok Eggs, featuring eggs with crisp edges in a sweet-spicy sauce, and Sweet-and-Sour Pork with Pineapples and Kiwi, a nostalgic dish that pairs perfectly with rice.
Through Rice, Ping Coombes invites home cooks to re-evaluate this staple, proving that with care and technique, it can elevate any meal from ordinary to extraordinary.
