Clovelly: A Unique Car-Free Village in North Devon
Visitors to the picturesque village of Clovelly in North Devon are transported to a world of quaint cottages, cobbled streets, and car-free roads. However, access to this peaceful coastal retreat comes at a cost. Clovelly, nestled within the North Devon Coast National Landscape (formerly an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty), remains one of the few privately owned villages in the UK. Its well-preserved character reflects centuries of history.
Dating back to the 11th century, Clovelly was reportedly owned by William the Conqueror before being gifted to his wife, Matilda of Flanders, the first crowned Queen of England. The Giffard family acquired it in the 12th century, and in 1738, the Hamlyn family purchased it for £9,438. Today, it is owned by John Rous, a descendant of the Hamlyns.
Why Clovelly Has No Cars
The village's most striking feature is its location on a steep, 400-foot cliffside. Narrow streets make driving impossible, leading to a complete ban on road vehicles. Locals use wooden sledges to haul goods and bulky items along the slope. Donkeys, once the primary mode of transport, still reside in stables at the village top, where young visitors can enjoy rides along the bay.
Home to about 472 residents, Clovelly prides itself on being a quiet, close-knit community. Despite this, approximately 150,000 curious tourists visit each year. Tourism is carefully managed, with all adult visitors charged a £10.90 entry fee and children aged 7 to 16 paying £6.25. This system was established by Mr. Rous after he inherited the estate in the 1980s, facing a significant backlog of repairs. The fees fund the village's restoration and upkeep.
What to See and Do in Clovelly
Once inside, visitors can explore cosy lanes, hidden passageways, craft workshops, and cafés like Clovelly Tea Rooms. Overnight stays are available at two historic hotels: The New Inn and The Red Lion. Entry fees also include access to Clovelly Court Gardens, Fisherman's Cottage, Kingsley Museum, general facilities, surrounding walks, picnic spots, and contributions to donkey care.
The village sits above the 14th-century Clovelly Quay and its sheltered bay, where small fishing boats dock in emerald-blue waters on a pebbled beach. At the Red Lion Hotel, guests enjoy sea views while dining on fresh lobster and crab. To the east of the beach, a waterfall cascades down the cliff into the sea. Legend has it that the Arthurian magician Merlin was born there.
Nearby Mouthmill Beach is accessible via a one-hour coastal walk west or an 11-minute drive. Back in Clovelly, visitors can learn more at two historic museums: Kingsley Museum, dedicated to author Charles Kingsley, and Fisherman's Cottage, which depicts local life in the 1930s. Clovelly Court Gardens feature Victorian walled gardens with glasshouses and fruit trees.
Visitors, especially those with mobility issues, should note that the main street is extremely steep and slippery. A paid Land Rover service is available to transport tourists back up from the harbour. The village is generally open from 9am to 5pm during peak seasons and 10am to 4pm in winter.
