Navigating Normandy and US Travel Disruptions: Simon Calder's Expert Advice
Simon Calder on Normandy Travel and US Airport Delays

Crossing the Channel to Normandy: A Travel Guide

Deauville, located just 150 miles south of London, presents a surprisingly challenging journey for travellers. The optimal route involves taking the 11am ferry from Portsmouth to Le Havre aboard the Brittany Ferries Commodore Clipper. This vessel, built in 1999, may not be the most modern on the Channel, but it offers a six-and-a-half-hour voyage to a captivating port city renowned for its ambitious post-war architecture.

Upon arrival in Le Havre, visitors are encouraged to explore the library designed by architect Oscar Niemeyer and the striking St-Joseph church, which resembles a Manhattan skyscraper. For onward travel to Deauville, the train connections are poor; instead, the Nomad bus network provides a scenic route across the Normandy Bridge, passing through the picturesque port of Honfleur. The total journey time is approximately 90 minutes, with some services offering direct trips or requiring a change in Honfleur.

For the return leg, travellers can retrace their steps via the overnight ferry from Le Havre to Portsmouth, departing at 9.15pm and arriving at 7am. Alternatively, continuing by bus to Caen allows exploration of this historic city, with three daily ferries available from the nearby port of Ouistreham to Portsmouth, including an overnight option.

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US Airport Staffing Issues and Travel Delays

A funding stand-off in the US has led to absentee staff at airports, with Transportation Security Administration (TSA) employees unpaid for five weeks. This has resulted in longer security queues, particularly at busy hubs like Atlanta's Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport. The UK Foreign Office has issued warnings about potential disruptions, and the Department of Homeland Security has highlighted significant travel delays.

For passengers flying from New Orleans to Atlanta, security clearance at Louis Armstrong airport is sufficient for onward travel within the US. Using the MyTSA app, average wait times at 10am on weekdays are under 15 minutes, though allowing double that time is advisable. For an 11.39am flight, arriving two hours early is recommended, with time for a final breakfast downtown before catching the 202 Airport Express bus, which takes 25 minutes to the terminal at a cost of $1.25.

Hidden Gems in Eastern Canada

For travellers exploring eastern Canada, starting in Montreal with a smoked beef sandwich at Schwartz's Deli, a landmark since 1928, is a must. Quebec City, northeast along the St Lawrence River, is celebrated as Canada's most beautiful city, with the Brutalist Hotel Le Concorde offering a unique stay.

Driving from Quebec City to Saguenay reveals haunting industrial archaeology, while the Saguenay River fjord leads to Tadoussac. Overnight at the Hotel Tadoussac, then take a ferry from Les Escoumins to Trois-Pistoles for access to the Gaspe Peninsula. This area provides stunning coastal drives and hikes, including Quebec's version of Land's End.

Continuing to Campbellton and through New Brunswick, Moncton offers views of the Bay of Fundy's tidal range. In Nova Scotia, the ferry from Digby to Saint John is recommended, with an option to cut through Maine (after checking vehicle insurance) before returning to Montreal for a final flourish.

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