DakaDaka London: A Rowdy Georgian Dining Experience in the West End
DakaDaka, a vibrant new restaurant celebrating Georgian cuisine, has opened on Heddon Street in London's West End. This area has long been associated with lively nights out, from the 1990s club scene to more recent upscale eateries. DakaDaka brings a unique twist, not as a nightclub but as a loud, energetic spot where Georgian dance music blares throughout your meal.
Atmosphere and Setting
The restaurant features pitch-black brick walls, candle lighting, and metal accents, creating an immersive vibe reminiscent of a late-night lock-in on a Tbilisi back street. Decor includes pottery, folklore items, and blackboards, while the menu offers dishes like badrijani (grilled aubergines), imeruli (cheese-filled flatbread), and kababi (lamb skewers). For those who prefer conversation-free dining, the central tables are ideal, but there's also a counter by the open kitchen for a closer view of the action.
Note: The open kitchen showcases live fire cooking, a trend that adds drama but can lead to chaotic scenes. Diners are advised to dress in removable layers due to the heat from the fire.
Staff and Drinks
The floor staff at DakaDaka are a highlight, described as twinkly-humoured and matriarchal, providing detailed explanations of dishes like lobio (kidney bean hummus) and khinkali (dumplings). They also promote Georgian natural wines, with 100 options available by the glass. Recommendations include the 2021 Kakheti wine and a Georgian twist on the vesper martini, noted for its strong, insulating qualities.
Food Review: Highs and Lows
On a Saturday night visit, the cooking had mixed results. The open kitchen was visibly chaotic, likened to a disorganised Live Aid performance. Starters included corn and millet crisps with walnut-coriander dips, which were punchy and enjoyable. The badrijani (grilled baby aubergines) with walnut and pomegranate were soft, sweet, and praised as genuinely lovely.
However, not all dishes impressed. The imeruli (cheese flatbread) tasted similar to a stuffed-crust Domino's pizza, lacking uniqueness. Lamb kababi skewers were forgettable and slightly overdone. A grape salad, though generous with ingredients, failed to evoke a desire for a Caucasus holiday.
Disappointments and Desserts
A whole sea bream cooked on the live fire was a major letdown. It took an excessively long time to arrive, with chefs appearing confused during preparation. The result was a mushy, unappetising plate with floppy skin, possibly due to frostbite in storage. For dessert, the red-wine ice-cream made with saperavi grapes was served with tough ponchiki (doughnuts). It was described as very vinegary and salty, with minimal wine flavour, finished with balsamic and salt as confirmed by staff.
Verdict
DakaDaka is an unforgettable experience, perfect for Georgians, homesick expats, or those who love loud music and want to unwind over dumplings. However, for others, it may be a polarising choice. The restaurant is located at 10 Heddon Street, London W1, open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner, with prices around £75 per person plus drinks and service.
