A Journey to Dunwich: Suffolk's Sunken Seaport
On a Friday evening at 7pm, we arrive in Dunwich, a small hamlet nestled in East Suffolk with a haunting past. Once a bustling seaport home to 5,000 residents and eight churches, by the 1600s, most of its structures had succumbed to the relentless sea, leaving behind only whispers of its former glory. Local folklore tells of church bells that still ring mysteriously beneath the waves, a poignant reminder of the village's submerged history.
Accommodation at The Ship
By 10pm, we settle into The Ship, a charmingly rickety hotel attached to an 18th-century pub, offering rooms at £120 per night. Our quaint room features a wicker bed positioned by a window, which we keep ajar throughout the night. Instead of the legendary sunken bells, we are lulled to sleep by the soothing sound of crashing waves, a serene contrast to the tales of the past.
Saturday Explorations
At 8am, we find Dunwich devoid of shops, prompting a drive to Yoxford for newspapers. Along the A12, we encounter The Yoxman, a striking 26ft-tall bronze statue of a nude man created in 2021 by artist Laurence Edwards. This splendid artwork stands proudly in a field, injecting a dose of artistic flair into the rural landscape.
After a delightful breakfast at The Ship at 9am, we stroll along Dunwich's expansive shingle beach. I admire a black-tarred fisherman's hut adorned with clocks displaying tide times, while my boyfriend points out Sizewell B nuclear power station visible in the distance, blending industrial modernity with natural beauty.
By 11am, we discover The Suffolk Sauna on the beach, a cozy setup accommodating up to eight people for £16 per hour rental. We warm ourselves inside until mustering the courage to dash into the 6°C North Sea for a brisk dunk, then race back to the sauna's heat, repeating this invigorating cycle several times.
At 1pm, we drive 30 minutes south to Aldeburgh, renowned for its shingle beach and pastel-colored houses. Here, we indulge in £2 sausage rolls from Lawson's Deli and marvel at Scallop, a sculpture by Suffolk-born artist Maggi Hambling, adding a cultural touch to our coastal adventure.
By 5pm, we return via Snape Maltings, a historic 1800s barley maltings transformed into an arts hub on the River Alde's banks. This venue boasts galleries, shops, a concert hall, and a notable set of three bronze sculptures by Barbara Hepworth, enriching our day with artistic heritage.
At 8pm, we unwind in the pub at The Ship, which epitomizes perfection with its old brick walls, overhead beams, and casement windows. Seated by a crackling fire, we enjoy a pint of local Adnams ale followed by a hearty meal featuring trout gravadlax for £11 and a mushroom and spinach pie for £21.
Sunday in Constable Country
By 12pm on Sunday, we embark on an hour's drive to Dedham Vale, famously known as Constable Country. This area inspired the 19th-century artist John Constable, who repeatedly painted the local mill. We dine at The Crown pub, sharing a lamb dish with trimmings for £50, savoring the blissful countryside ambiance that captivated Constable himself.
