A Perfect Mother's Day: Northumberland Coast Walk and Historic Bookshop Visit
Tentatively navigating a steep cliff with two teenagers while admiring breathtaking panoramic views encapsulates motherhood: constantly improvising amidst sheer wonder. With Mother's Day often linked to expensive gestures, for Helen Wilson-Beevers, the ultimate gift is simple, quality time with her children. Her perfect day features a scenic hike along the Northumberland Coast Path, followed by a visit to one of the United Kingdom's largest second-hand bookshops, which famously houses the original Keep Calm and Carry On poster.
The Northumberland Coast Path Adventure
The Northumberland Coast Path spans 65 miles from Cresswell to Berwick-upon-Tweed, with Helen's preferred segment stretching between the stunning Sugar Sands beach and the picturesque fishing village of Craster. Starting at the beach car park, accessible via Low Steads Farm near Longhoughton, the journey begins with sparkling seas and a winding trail ahead.
Embarking on the six-mile round trip, Helen and her teens catch up on their respective weeks at work and school. To their right, frothy waves meet the sky, while a dramatic landscape unfolds before them. They pass golden sands and waters that shift between shades of blue and grey daily. On the horizon stands Howick Bathing House, a listed structure built in the early 19th century by Charles Grey, the second Earl Grey, renowned for his signature tea blend.
Nearby lies Howick Hall Gardens and Arboretum, the ancestral home of the Earls Grey, dating from 1782. This site offers a tearoom, woodland walks, and beautiful gardens to explore. The Bathing House, with its striking presence, provides a coastal retreat available for stays with advance booking. Adjacent is Rumbling Kern, a secret beach nestled within a rocky cove where they pause to absorb the serene atmosphere.
Historical Landmarks and Coastal Charm
Beyond this lies Cullernose Point, where dolerite cliffs jut out prominently, part of the Whin Sill formation found across Northumberland, from Hadrian's Wall to Holy Island. This spot offers potential dolphin sightings, adding to the day's excitement. Continuing onward, the promise of a cool drink and chips in Craster motivates the walk.
Craster, a quaint fishing village, features a small harbour and is famed for its traditional smoked kippers. L Robson & Sons Ltd smokehouse, a century-old stalwart, fills the air with a signature woody scent. At The Jolly Fisherman pub, they enjoy outdoor seating with views of Dunstanburgh Castle, a 14th-century ruin now owned by English Heritage. Further north, tranquil Embleton Bay awaits for those extending the path.
Barter Books: A Literary Haven
On the return journey, Helen entices her kids with a stop at Barter Books in Alnwick. Housed in a former Victorian railway station that closed in 1968, this second-hand bookshop opened in 1991. Charming details, like a model railway line overhead and an old waiting room serving as part of the cafe, honor its origins.
Historically significant, the original Keep Calm and Carry On poster from World War Two adorns the wall. Owners Stuart and Mary Manley discovered the 1939 poster in a box of books at a 2000 auction and displayed it in the shop. After visitors noted its uniqueness, they began selling replicas, sparking a pop culture phenomenon where the slogan appears on items from mugs to T-shirts.
True to its name, Barter Books operates on a swapping system. While books can be purchased outright, customers can also open accounts to accumulate credit. The team assesses brought-in books, offers prices for accepted ones, and adds the amount to the customer's balance for future purchases.
Cherishing Family Moments
Scouring shelves for new reads, they settle by an open fire, discussing TV shows, friendships, TikTok trends, and more. Helen reflects on freezing this moment if possible, a sentiment she holds for every stage of motherhood. Gaining insights through teenage perspectives is a cherished privilege. She treasures their time together, deeming it the perfect Mother's Day, and eagerly anticipates future adventures.
