Discovering Whitby's Culinary and Historic Treasures
In an enviable assignment, I recently explored the picturesque North Yorkshire harbour town of Whitby, renowned for its award-winning fish and chips, imposing Gothic abbey ruins, and literary connections to Dracula and Captain Cook. As I drove into town on a bright Saturday morning in March, one of the first truly sunny days of the year, a sign proclaiming Whitby as the Home of Scampi immediately heightened my expectations for the day's culinary adventure.
Award-Winning Seafood Delight
Whitby's reputation for seafood is well-established, with numerous chippies dotting the town. Among them, Trenchers on New Quay Road stands out as the proud winner of this year's Best Restaurant at the prestigious National Fish and Chip Awards. Arriving around 10:30 am, I was surprised to find a long queue already forming outside the restaurant, a testament to its recent culinary acclaim.
Accompanied by my excitable cocker spaniel, Luna, I opted for Trenchers' takeaway next door, where I encountered just one other patron, who was quick to praise the quality of Whitby's seafood. I ordered cod, chips, mushy peas, and a side of curry sauce for £16 in total, then sat on a bench opposite the eatery to enjoy the seaside scene. Market traders catered to busy foot traffic at pop-up stalls, adding to the vibrant atmosphere.
Quickly polishing off my chippy lunch, I savoured a delicious serving of fish with light, crispy batter and golden chips. The meal was nearly flawless, earning a mental rating of 8.5 out of 10, with only the slightly pale batter offering any minor critique.
Exploring Whitby's Historic Heart
After disposing of the rubbish, Luna and I strolled into the harbour area towards Whitby Swing Bridge over the River Esk, aiming to access the other side of town and the looming abbey on the hillside. Breathing in the sea air and admiring the views across the water, my attention was drawn to an impressive ship, later identified as The Whitby Endeavour restaurant.
Upon reaching the bridge, we discovered it was temporarily closed. Friendly locals advised a longer walk around to reach the other side, but I was keen to walk off my meal, so we set off. Crossing a larger bridge, I was treated to spectacular views over the entire town, with the river flowing beneath and many boats resting on the bank next to train tracks awaiting their next outing.
Eventually, we worked our way around to the other side, passing the Tolkien-themed Middle Earth Tavern as we entered narrow, shop-filled Church Street. There, I found myself ogling the many books, trinkets, and baked goods on display, adding to the town's charming character.
Ascending the Famous 199 Steps
Next, I made my way to the famous 199 Steps on Whitby's East Cliff, which lead up to St Mary's Church and the breathtaking 7th-century Whitby Abbey beyond. In Bram Stoker's Dracula, the titular vampire takes the form of a dog and bounds up these steps. In similarly exuberant fashion, Luna hauled me up all 199; though, in my case, it was likely a blessing for my fitness.
Stopping for several photos along the way, I was left awestruck by Whitby's beauty, something that becomes increasingly apparent as you ascend the steps, with each level revealing a different angle of the town. Upon reaching the church, its distinctive Gothic atmosphere was palpable—dozens of gravestones overlook the town below, while a sharp sea breeze envelops you as you admire the coastal vistas.
Whitby Abbey is also a sight to behold, a majestic ruin sure to inflame the imagination of any visiting history buffs. To top it all off, a dog-friendly café nearby offered a welcome respite. After a quick latte and a Twix—while Luna enjoyed some water and a few meaty dog treats—we made our way back down the steps, just as crowds began to gather in the early afternoon.
A Memorable Departure
In a surprising but touching twist that may offer insight into the town's beauty, I even spotted a man going down on one knee and proposing to his girlfriend outside the church. Once safely back in the car, I found myself wishing I could have stayed longer. Whitby has found a lifelong fan in me, and I will most definitely be returning.
If I had to sum up Whitby in one word, although it's a hard task for a place I like so much, it would probably have to be stunning. This North Yorkshire gem combines award-winning cuisine, historic allure, and natural beauty into an unforgettable experience.
