Stephanie Alexander Reflects on Food Anxiety and Family Traditions
Renowned Australian chef and cookbook author Stephanie Alexander sits in her wicker armchair, surrounded by the dappled light of her garden along the Yarra River in Melbourne's inner suburbs. She speaks passionately about a pervasive issue in modern society: food anxiety. "The single biggest problem with food, for people who don't love good food, is anxiety," Alexander states. "They're anxious about what's good for them, how much to eat, and how to prepare it. That's where The Cook's Companion comes in."
A Culinary Legacy: The Cook's Companion at 30
It has been three decades since Alexander released her iconic tome, The Cook's Companion, a nearly 1,400-page resource covering recipes from sauteed abalone to zucchini soufflé. Over the years, she has expanded her influence through charity work, national honors like being made an Officer of the Order of Australia, and additional cookbooks. Many readers, including journalists, share personal stories of relying on her book as a kitchen bible, a testament to its trusted guidance. "I think people trust it and they trust me—that I'm not just trying to be fashionable," Alexander remarks.
Life by the Yarra: A Peaceful Retreat
Alexander's apartment garden, nestled near the swiftly flowing Yarra River, offers a serene escape. Tall river gums rustle gently overhead, providing shade and tranquility. "I just love the fact that I look out on gum trees," she says, describing how the setting helps her unwind after busy days. During Covid lockdowns, she and neighbors creatively shared food via a basket on a rope, fostering community spirit. Her garden boasts a variety of herbs like sage, rosemary, and thyme, which she uses in dishes such as fried sage with eggs or fish.
Family Influences and the Kitchen Garden Foundation
Alexander's culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in her upbringing. She recalls her parents' model of sharing food and welcoming newcomers, including refugees like Mieze, who taught her mother a plum cake recipe now featured in her cookbook. This early exposure to food as a joyful, communal experience inspired her to establish the Kitchen Garden Foundation in 2004. The foundation teaches children in schools and early childhood services about growing, harvesting, and preparing food. "I really believe that the earlier you're introduced to the idea of food being a positive, wonderful, joyful thing, the more likely you are to be a food lover for the rest of your life," Alexander emphasizes.
European Flavors and Sensual Dining
Influenced by British cookery writer Elizabeth David and a year spent in France during her youth, Alexander's recipes often feature European techniques and flavors. She describes herself as a "sensualist," valuing the aesthetics of table settings and the celebration of meals. "I believe in a certain amount of celebration with your food—that the food is important, so it needs to have a bit of presence," she says. She advocates for family dinners as a priority, acknowledging the challenges for working parents but stressing their importance for connection and combating loneliness.
Critiquing Wellness Trends and Diet Culture
When asked about wellness trends and diet culture, Alexander expresses strong disapproval. "I just get so enraged at the idea that to be healthy has become a trend," she says, frowning. She dismisses protein shakes as unnecessary, arguing that protein can be obtained through natural foods. "I worry about people who get caught up in that, because I know there's plenty of ways of getting protein without having to have this terrible milky thing," she adds. Alexander believes such trends stem from fear and a lack of appreciation for food's sensory pleasures, urging people to embrace cooking and sharing meals as a path to joy and fulfillment.
As she serves plum cake with cream in her garden, Alexander's message is clear: food should be a source of pleasure, not anxiety, and communal dining can enrich lives in profound ways.
