Hummus Ascends to Inflation Basket Status as British Mainstay
In a definitive sign of changing culinary times, hummus has been added to the UK's inflation basket, marking its transition from a niche dip to a ubiquitous British staple, often dubbed the 'new ketchup'. This move by the Office for National Statistics (ONS) underscores the chickpea-based spread's journey from supermarket novelty in the late 1980s to a product Britons now spend £170 million on annually.
From Kitchen Startup to National Phenomenon
Ramona Hazan, founder of the eponymous hummus brand, highlights this shift as evidence of a globalised UK diet. 'What this shows us is that the UK diet is now global,' she states, noting the mainstream embrace of Middle-Eastern cuisine. Starting her company in 2004 with a modest £25 blender, Hazan's brand now produces 80-100 tonnes weekly and is valued at £24 million, competing fiercely with supermarket and independent labels.
Hazan refutes the notion that hummus is solely middle-class, asserting its widespread appeal. 'It is everywhere. It is a healthy alternative to a lot of things on the market,' she explains. Beyond its traditional role as a party dip, hummus is now used as a sandwich filler, mayonnaise substitute, and ingredient in health bowls, soups, and pasta dishes, fueled by social media trends on platforms like Instagram and TikTok.
Supermarket Evolution and Cultural Integration
Waitrose pioneered hummus in British supermarkets in 1987, advertising its 'exotic Mediterranean flavour'. Today, hummus is a habitual purchase, with Jonny Forsyth of Mintel noting it has become as routine as buying bread and milk. This reflects a broader surge in Middle-Eastern cuisine popularity, driven by chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi, Claudia Roden, and Anissa Helou, who have championed these foods in recent years.
Ottolenghi praises the widespread consumption, even if commercial versions lack the freshness of Middle-Eastern preparations. 'But if I had to choose a commercially made sandwich filler or sauce, I’d much rather have hummus than ketchup or even coleslaw,' he remarks, emphasising its nutritional benefits from chickpeas, tahini, lemon juice, and garlic.
Market Expansion and Inflation Insights
Supermarket ranges have expanded dramatically, with Tesco offering 18 variants, from snack pots to gourmet options featuring truffle oil. The 2017 hummus crisis, where shelves emptied due to taste complaints, is a distant memory as the product now features in lunch deals and petrol stations. The ONS's inclusion of hummus and alcohol-free beer in the inflation basket signals a shift towards healthier lifestyle choices, according to Stephen Burgess, ONS deputy director for prices.
Price comparisons highlight hummus's journey: from 79p for a 300g tub in 1987 to £1.85 today for Waitrose's basic version. Lizzie Haywood, Waitrose's trend innovation manager, observes hummus has evolved from an 'exotic curiosity' to the 'backbone of British snacking habits', cementing its role in the nation's culinary landscape.
