A cherished piece of London's social history is set to welcome patrons once again as a historic pub dating back to the 18th century reopens its doors after years of closure. Following an extensive six-year hiatus and a comprehensive £1.8 million refurbishment project, the Grade II listed establishment will officially resume trading this Wednesday, marking a significant revival for the local community and heritage enthusiasts alike.
A Building Steeped in History
The Hoop and Grapes, located on Farringdon Road, was originally closed in 2019 due to extensive redevelopment works in the surrounding area. This closure was merely the latest chapter in a long and turbulent history for the venue, which was first rescued from potential demolition back in the 1990s. Now, under the stewardship of the family-owned brewer Shepherd Neame, based in Kent, the pub has been meticulously restored to its former glory.
Dating all the way back to 1720, the five-storey building began its life as the residence of a wine merchant before being converted into a public house in 1832. Over the centuries, it has operated under various names, including Samuel's Bar & Restaurant and the Mash Tun, each era adding to its rich tapestry. The pub's historical significance is further underscored by its unique licensing past; it once held a special permit allowing it to open between 2am and 5am to serve night workers from the nearby Fleet Street newspaper offices and Smithfield Market.
Preservation and Modernisation
The £1.8 million refurbishment undertaken by Shepherd Neame has been a delicate balancing act between preserving the building's historic character and introducing modern amenities. The ground floor will function as a traditional London pub, featuring an original long bar and impressive floor-to-ceiling doors that open out onto a charming courtyard garden. This space aims to recapture the authentic atmosphere that has made the venue a local landmark for generations.
Significant changes have been made to the layout to enhance the customer experience. The kitchen has been relocated to the second floor, where chefs will prepare a new menu focused on locally sourced, seasonal produce with an emphasis on shareable dishes. Upper levels now offer additional seating, including a covered and heated terrace, while the third floor houses an intimate piano room designed for private dining and special occasions.
Architectural and Archaeological Intrigue
The building's cellar, which dates back to the 1700s, was constructed on land that once formed part of St Bride's Church burial ground. During renovation works in the 1990s, burial remains were uncovered, with many subsequently relocated to the British Museum. This archaeological discovery adds another layer to the pub's fascinating past, which also includes notoriety as a location for illegitimate Fleet Weddings during its time as an inn.
The Hoop and Grapes has demonstrated remarkable resilience throughout its history. It sustained damage during the Blitz and narrowly escaped demolition in 1991 when English Heritage intervened to list its historic interior, recognising its architectural and cultural value. This latest refurbishment ensures that these historic features are preserved for future generations to appreciate.
Culinary and Beverage Offerings
The new menu promises to blend traditional British pub fare with contemporary influences. Highlights include freshly shucked and grilled oysters, small plates such as miso-glazed aubergine, burrata, and lamb koftas, alongside mains ranging from classic fish and chips to tandoori chicken skewers and grilled sirloin. The drinks menu will feature a selection of cocktails, Shepherd Neame ales and lagers, and English wines, providing something for every palate.
It's worth noting that there is another establishment called the Hoop & Grapes on Aldgate High Street, which holds the distinction of being the oldest licensed house in the City. Built in 1593 and originally called The Castle, then the Angel & Crown, then Christopher Hills, it finally became the Hoop & Grapes in the 1920s. The name itself historically advertised that both beer and wine were available for purchase, a tradition that continues in the revived Farringdon location.
The reopening of The Hoop and Grapes represents more than just the revival of a drinking establishment; it signifies the preservation of London's architectural heritage and social history. As it welcomes patrons once again, it stands as a testament to the enduring appeal of traditional pubs and the importance of safeguarding historical landmarks for future enjoyment.
