Burro London: A Serene Italian Escape in Covent Garden
Burro, a new Italian restaurant nestled in Covent Garden, London, has quickly captured attention, not least because it is helmed by Conor Gadd, the acclaimed chef-owner behind Trullo in Islington. For over 15 years, Trullo has been a steadfast recommendation for those seeking a reliable, grown-up dining experience, often praised for dishes like its beef shin ragu. Now, Gadd brings his culinary authority and old-school charm to a more tourist-centric locale, specifically a hidden courtyard off King Street near Covent Garden tube station, leading down to Floral Street.
Elegant Ambiance and Hearty Menu
Burro is described as big yet the opposite of brash, serving as an oasis of pristine sanity in an area bustling with fire-breathing buskers and novelty Guinness hats. The interior boasts a colour scheme of unobtrusive beige and taupe, accented with non-jarring bursts of ombre, creating a defiantly serene atmosphere. Real tablecloths add a touch of luxury, while knowledgeable staff, some from Trullo, guide diners through the menu with expertise.
The menu at Burro echoes elements of its sister restaurant but leans towards elegant yet hearty offerings. Antipasti include a rough-hewn, well-seasoned paté of Venetian chicken livers on thick bruschetta, which could easily serve as a main course paired with a sharp white wine or a negroni. Another standout is the fried artichoke with bottarga, featuring chunky, lightly battered artichoke with salty fishy notes. Fresh focaccia is glossy, crisp, springy, and moist, receiving no complaints.
Signature Dishes and Culinary Highlights
Primi courses feature tagliarini with clams and strozzapreti with pork and chilli, while secondi include a whole lemon sole in prosecco sauce and a substantial vitello al burro, a breadcrumbed, buttery veal milanese rich with garlic. The braised beef shin on polenta offers pure comfort, with polenta submerged in butter and beef as soft as nursery food.
For many, the highlight is Burro's fettuccine with duck and porcini ragu, a spin on Trullo's classic beef shin ragu. This dish is described as rich, silky, decadent, and possibly one of the best currently served in the pasta-stuffed postcode. It comes in a sharing portion or as a self-indulgent gannet's portion, allowing diners to choose their level of indulgence.
Innovative Desserts and Final Thoughts
Dessert brings a creative twist with tiramisu doughnuts, consisting of warm ricotta dough sprinkled with sugar and blitzed ladyfingers, served on coffee cream laced with marsala. While purists might debate its authenticity, it evokes a playful blend of Blackpool promenade doughnut stalls and Bologna's Vespa culture.
In a central London saturated with Italian restaurants, from Locatelli at the National Gallery to Charlie Mellor's Osteria Vibrato and even Jamie's Italian's revival, Burro carves out its niche. It raises the question of whether the area needs another Italian spot, but Gadd's execution suggests it's a welcome addition. After consideration, recreating Trullo's bespoke loveliness in Covent Garden seems an act of complete sanity rather than madness.
Burro is located at 2 Floral Court, Floral Street, London WC2, with contact at 020-4580 1495. It is open all week, with lunch from 12.30-3pm and dinner from 5.30-10.30pm (9.30pm on Sundays). Prices average about £70 per head for three courses, plus drinks and service.
