A Journey to the Past: Uncovering Latvian Roots
In the heart of Riga, Latvia, my grandmother Moen and I stood in the Art Nouveau Museum, surrounded by relics of a bygone era. As she pointed at curious two-inch long cutlery stands on a table, her eyes lit up with recognition. "Mother had those," she exclaimed, her voice tinged with nostalgia. We were on a mission, tracing our family roots back to this Baltic capital, spurred by a recent DNA test that revealed our deep Ashkenazi Jewish origins.
The DNA Revelation and a Family Mission
Three months prior, I had taken a DNA test through MyHeritage, an online genealogy company, which opened a can of worms. While I knew my family hailed from Lithuania, Latvia, and Poland, the results showed I am 98 per cent Ashkenazi Jewish, with roots predominantly in Latvia before the 20th century. This discovery prompted an immediate call to Moen, my only grandparent with memories of our Baltic ancestors. She recalled her mother, Vera Trembatzki, who emigrated from Riga to South Africa just before World War II, but had rarely spoken of her past.
Initially reluctant, Moen eventually agreed to join me on this heritage tour, lured by the promise of five days together in a place that felt both foreign and familiar. Our trip aligned with a growing travel trend for 2026, as highlighted by Conde Nast Traveller, where people trace their roots inspired by shows like Who Do You Think You Are? We arrived in Riga on a snowy January afternoon, with temperatures plunging to -12C, a stark contrast to Moen's life in South Africa.
Archival Clues and Emotional Discoveries
Armed with archives from MyHeritage, including photographs, family trees, and old letters, we began our search. The images were uncanny: Vera bore a striking resemblance to Moen, and my great-grandfather Solomon Samuelson looked eerily like my brother. Piecing together snippets from Moen's memories, we deduced that Vera met Solomon in 1930s Riga before he emigrated to South Africa, where she later joined him.
Our first priority was finding Vera's home. Starting at the Art Nouveau Museum with our guide Andra Brice, Moen grew increasingly excited as familiar items—hat boxes, embroidered tea towels, and lace curtains—evoked childhood memories. "I feel like I'm dreaming," she kept uttering, as if transported back in time.
The Search for Vera's Apartment
With only a photograph from Parisian cousins, we ventured to the Museum of Jews in Latvia, but found no references to the Trembatzki or Samuelson families. Staff directed us to the same street, in the historic Jewish quarter. Andra used ChatGPT to analyze the image, suggesting an address, but it proved incorrect. After hours of searching in the freezing cold, our driver Raitis recognized the building from the photo—it was now a kebab shop. The moment we found it, marked with "1913" on the door, was emotional and deeply satisfying. Moen whispered, "I feel her spirit here," as we stood before a place that once ousted a Jewish community.
Exploring Riga and Beyond
The reason for Vera's departure remains unclear, possibly due to work opportunities or growing anti-Semitic sentiment. For the rest of our trip, Andra guided us through Riga's sights, and we sampled local cuisine, from seared tuna at Kolonade Our Stories to mushroom soup at Kalku Varti. Moen reminisced about her mother's cooking, like chopped herring and borscht, which we spotted in markets.
Our journey extended to Liepaja, a port city 125 miles from Riga, where we discovered that both sides of our family originated from nearby areas. Visiting a Jewish cemetery, we found ancestors' names on burial lists, a poignant reminder of the Holocaust. At the Skede Holocaust Memorial, Moen's tears flowed, whether from the cold or the weight of history. The Jewish community in Latvia has greatly diminished since the 1940s, with survivors rebuilding lives abroad.
A Powerful and Exhausting Experience
This heritage tour was unlike any travel I had experienced before, offering a powerful connection to our past. Watching emotions play out on Moen's face was unforgettable. We returned to London emotionally exhausted, certain we would never embark on such a journey again, yet absolutely delighted we did. It was a feat of defiance and discovery, bridging generations through shared history and love.
