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The Greek 'Island of Outcasts' That's Suddenly on Everyone's Holiday List
Don't be misled by the name. This Dodecanese destination embodies the quintessential Greek island fantasy – complete with beachfront tavernas, picturesque windmills, and exceptionally welcoming locals, according to travel writer Sarah Holt.
Saturday 28 March 2026 11:53 GMT
A Scene of Serenity
The rhythmic lapping of waves against vibrantly painted fishing boats creates a soothing soundtrack. Fishermen meticulously repair their nets on the dock while a young boy expertly pulls gleaming, platinum-scaled fish from the water using a simple handline. Observing this peaceful tableau from a sun-drenched table at a waterfront cafe in Agia Marina, Leros's main town, it becomes impossible to fathom how this idyllic spot ever earned the grim monikers "Isle of Outcasts" or "Island of the Damned."
A Tumultuous Past
A brief glance at historical records unveils a darker chapter. Leros endured the second-highest level of bombing among Greek islands during the Second World War. It later served as an internment camp for political prisoners under the Greek junta dictatorship throughout the 1960s and 1970s. Furthermore, a psychiatric hospital operating on the island was shuttered in the 1990s following revelations of appalling patient treatment.
Transformation into Tranquility
Today, however, scant evidence of this turbulent history remains visible. Aside from a meticulously maintained war cemetery, a compact military museum, a few decaying gun battery ruins, and an acoustic military mirror on the west coast, the island has been utterly transformed. Located a mere 90-minute ferry journey from the more bustling and familiar Kos, Leros stands out as one of the most profoundly relaxed Greek islands experienced by many travelers.
The Heart of Agia Marina
Centered around a ferry port scarcely larger than a typical back garden, Agia Marina presents a charming cluster of independent boutiques selling linen, ceramics, and jewellery, alongside private studio apartments and authentic tavernas and gyros eateries. The town boasts a delightful pair of bakeries, renowned for their speciality Lerian cheese pies – a delicious combination of feta, pastry, and a hint of cinnamon.
Service throughout Agia Marina is consistently, and cheerfully, unhurried. One afternoon at Ta Kroupia grill, a leisurely two-hour lunch unfolds, featuring sizzling baked feta, freshly made tzatziki, soft pitta bread, and glasses of chilled white wine, all while locals enjoy plates of Leros's signature salted mackerel nearby.
Unique Local Haunts
The island's capital also hosts some truly distinctive bars. At Diamanti Cafe, Singer sewing machine stands serve as unique tables, and a pet parrot named Coffii entertains (or harasses) staff with a repertoire of Greek expletives. Meanwhile, Meltimi bar resembles an antiques emporium more than a drinking establishment, thanks to its extensive collection of nautical decor.
Historical Landmarks and Iconic Views
Agia Marina's crowning landmark is Pandeli Castle. Perched dramatically on a clifftop 150 meters above the town, its foundations trace back to Byzantine times, constructed upon the site of an ancient acropolis reminiscent of Athens. While accessible by car, the more rewarding ascent involves climbing the 500-step switchback path from the village of Platanos, a short walk from Agia Marina's waterfront. This climb rewards hikers with breathtaking, panoramic views of both the island's east and west coasts at every turn.
The Symbolic Windmills
Alongside the castle, Leros's iconic windmills stand as proud emblems. Arranged in a ceremonial line on the hillside above the picturesque fishing village of Panteli on the east coast, these jam jar-shaped structures, similar to those on Mykonos, were historically used for grinding wheat and barley into flour during the 18th century. Today, they have been beautifully restored and repurposed. One now houses the Harris cocktail bar, where an al fresco terrace offers stunning vistas over Panteli harbour and the multi-hued blues of the Aegean Sea beyond.
Pristine Coastal Beauty
The coastline of Leros is adorned with numerous beautiful beaches. A 35-minute stroll from Agia Marina leads to Alinda, the island's longest beach. Here, the waters possess a clarity that makes cut crystal appear cloudy, and the smooth pebble sand is flanked by traditional tavernas. At Argo taverna, securing a table under the shade of a tamarisk tree allows for a leisurely lunch of keftedes (Greek meatballs), accompanied by the gentle soundtrack of lapping waves and cheerful conversation.
Local Brews and Vines
Remarkably for an island measuring less than 30 square miles, Leros supports both a brewery and a winery. Raven Brewing's pale ales are served in bars across the island. Meanwhile, Isichi Ampelones winery, nestled in the brush-covered hills of the northeast, opens for tours and tastings during the summer months. This secluded oasis hosts tastings on a vine-draped terrace, complemented by classic Greek nibbles like olives and cheeses. A particular highlight is a robust red wine crafted from mandilaria grapes, offering aromas of fireside smoke and cocoa – compelling enough to send visitors away laden with multiple bottles.
The Architectural Legacy of Lakki
A visit to Lakki provides a fascinating finale to any Leros trip. Boasting one of the largest natural harbours in the Mediterranean, Lakki Bay attracted the attention of Benito Mussolini in the 1920s when Leros was under Italian rule. Aiming to establish it as the "Corregidor of the Mediterranean" – a crucial defensive point for controlling the eastern Mediterranean – the dictator commissioned architects to construct a new model town in the Italian rationalist style. The faded grandeur of these ambitions remains visible in Lakki's architecture, which evokes more of a weathered South Beach Miami aesthetic than traditional Greek island charm.
Enjoying a final glass of wine at a Lakki waterfront cafe, while watching sailboats glide serenely across the bay, invites reflection on the island's old nickname. If this truly is the island of outcasts, it's a place of exile one could happily embrace.
Travel Essentials
Getting There: No airlines offer direct flights to Leros, with most journeys requiring a stop in Athens, Kos, or other Greek islands. Regional carriers like Olympic Air provide services to Leros. Blue Star Ferries operates up to five weekly sailings from Kos Town to Agia Marina in Leros, with one-way fares averaging around £13.83.
Where to Stay: Crithoni’s Paradise Hotel near Alinda features an outdoor pool and a prime location close to the sea, with prices starting from approximately £41. For a truly unique experience, a three-night stay in a converted windmill at Leros Windmills offers an unforgettable way to immerse oneself in the island's character.
This article was originally published in July 2025 and has been comprehensively updated.
