Marseille's Remarkable Renaissance
Even with flawless French, ordering at Bar Gaspard, one of Marseille's trendiest cocktail venues, would prove impossible. On a bustling Friday evening, patrons are handed what appears to be a menu but is merely a blank page. A bartender, noting the confusion, explains that bespoke cocktails are crafted based on 'taste preference, mood, and vibe for the night'.
Any lingering doubts about the bar's hip credentials vanish instantly. He assesses the customers, listens to their vague ideas, and with a wink, retreats to a corner where the sound of ice clinking in a shaker fills the air. Soon, they're savoring a blend of dark rum, lime juice, Thai basil, and a hint of chilli—a delicious concoction.
A City Transformed
Marseille has long been associated with a gritty image, frequently linked to drug-related violence and organised crime. However, a significant investment of approximately half a billion euros, much of it allocated before and after the city was named a European Capital of Culture in 2013, has spurred a dramatic turnaround.
Today, this Provencal port boasts modern art galleries, cutting-edge museums like the brilliant Mucem dedicated to Mediterranean civilisations, acclaimed restaurants, and fashionable bars. The city's hospitality scene flourishes with excellent hotels, including the stylish Mama Shelter chain, the hip Nhow, and the chic InterContinental Marseille - Hotel Dieu, chosen for its prime location in an 18th-century hospital with a third of rooms offering views of the old port.
Culinary Delights and Coastal Escapes
Marseille is ideal for a short break, with average daily highs around 19-20°C and seafood that is second to none. Following a local tip, visitors flock to Poissonnerie Kennedy, a fishmonger-restaurant that epitomises the city's foodie scene. No menu is needed; instead, guests indulge in trout ceviche, cod roe, and barbecued sea bass, paired with an oaky sauvignon blanc recommended by the waitress.
The following morning, e-bikes from Fada Bike Cafe provide a scenic ride along Corniche Kennedy to the charming fishing village of Les Goudes. Just a short distance from the city, this area exudes a laid-back vibe, with coves lined with rental beach homes and the boutique Tuba Club perched on enamel-coloured rocks overlooking turquoise waters. Joggers and cyclists gather at coffee shop Cecile, basking in the sunshine.
Cultural Melting Pot and Gourmet Discoveries
Back in Marseille's heart, the bustle is palpable. The city is a cultural melting pot, home to large North African and Arabic communities, felt vividly in the streets of the first arrondissement, Noailles, often called the 'belly' of the city. This leads to Le Cours Julien, a bohemian neighbourhood famed for vintage shops and street art, where locals and visitors hunt for bargains in second-hand stores.
On another local recommendation, Livingston, a hip wine bar-restaurant in Le Cours Julien, offers tasting menus featuring seasonal asparagus, juicy duck breast, creamy smoked mussels on brioche, and the classic French dessert ile flottante. Every dish delights the palate.
Conclusion: A Welcoming Destination
Marseille exudes an undeniable coolness, but it's matched by a genuine friendliness. Looking beyond its edgier past reveals a city rich in great food, wine, sea views, and a warm willingness to ensure visitors have a memorable time.
Travel Facts: British Airways Holidays offers two nights at the InterContinental Marseille - Hotel Dieu from £429 per person, including return flights from Heathrow; book by April 30 for stays between October 1 and 31. More information is available at marseille-tourisme.com.
