Orkney's Culinary and Coastal Treasures: From Supersized Scallops to Ancient Stones
Nestled in the remote beauty of Scotland's northern isles, Orkney offers a captivating blend of gourmet dining, historic stays, and breathtaking landscapes. This archipelago, comprising 70 islands with 20 inhabited, invites visitors to experience its unique charm through local flavours and timeless attractions.
EAT: Supersized Scallops and Local Heroes
The Foveran restaurant provides an unforgettable dining experience just a ten-minute drive from Kirkwall, Orkney's largest town. Situated alone in a field, its back wall features a single window framing views of Scapa Flow, the natural harbour where 52 German warships were sunk in 1919. The food here is exceptional, with the standout being the largest scallops imaginable, hand-caught in local waters and served as a trio for £15. Television presenter Lorraine Kelly, who visits Orkney annually, praises The Foveran for having "some of the best food I've ever eaten."
In Kirkwall, The Storehouse adds to the culinary scene. Originally a herring-curing depot in the 1800s, this stoney building now operates as a charming hotel and pub. It serves excellent seafood, including haddock and chips for £19, alongside homemade sorbet at £7.50 for three scoops and potent local beers that pack a punch.
STAY: Trad and Plaid to Leading Light
For accommodation, Karrawa Guest House on Mainland Island offers a cosy, family-owned stay with six en-suite bedrooms adorned with tartan carpets. Prices start at £88 per night, including a cooked breakfast that features traditional haggis.
For something more unusual, Cantick Head Lighthouse Cottage on the Isle of Hoy was rated the second-most unusual place to stay in Britain by travel experts in 2021. This two-bedroom home, attached to a lighthouse designed in 1856 by Thomas Stevenson, father of author Robert Louis Stevenson, perches on a 115-foot cliff in total isolation. At £240 per night, it includes modern luxuries like a hot tub and sauna.
LOVE: Rock On and Beaches Galore
History enthusiasts must visit Skara Brae, a remarkably preserved 5,000-year-old prehistoric settlement on Mainland with original curved stone walls and handmade stone tables. Entry costs £14. A short ten-minute drive south leads to the Ring of Brodgar, one of the UK's oldest stone circles, featuring 36 gigantic standing rocks built around 2500 BC, predating Stonehenge, and it's free to visit.
Orkney's beaches are diverse and spectacular. Sanday boasts Caribbean-worthy white sands, Rackwick on Hoy offers rugged cliffs frequented by golden eagles, and North Ronaldsay is home to unique sheep that live on rocks and eat seaweed. While swimming costumes might be packed, wetsuits are often more practical for braving the cool waters.
