Phu Quoc: Vietnam's Undiscovered Island Gem Beyond the Tourist Trail
At lunchtime in Duong Dong's bustling main market, the scene is authentically local, with no tourists in sight. Motorcycles weave through potholed streets, laden with crates of mangoes and squid, while families squeeze onto single seats. Stalls overflow with fresh seafood like cuttlefish and sea urchins, directly from docked boats, alongside baskets of dragon fruit, durians, and mini bananas. An elderly man in a conical bamboo hat gestures toward a tank of plump frogs, offering a taste of traditional island life.
Just over the bridge, the night market presents a stark contrast, opening for tourists with street food stalls, coffee shops, and souvenir stands. Silk lanterns and fairy lights adorn the streets, where locally grown fruits are transformed into smoothies or drizzled with chocolate on demand. This duality highlights Phu Quoc's evolving identity as it balances its rustic charm with growing tourism.
A Tropical Paradise in the Gulf of Thailand
Phu Quoc, Vietnam's largest island, is an hour's flight from Ho Chi Minh City and part of an archipelago of 22 forest-covered specks in the Gulf of Thailand. Roughly the size of the Isle of Man, over half of the island is blanketed in tropical jungle, designated as a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. It boasts 93 miles of pristine white sand beaches nestled between tiny fishing villages.
Until 2013, Phu Quoc relied on the mainland for electricity and is renowned for its pearls, pepper, and fish sauce. Unlike popular destinations like Phuket and Bali, it has remained off the radar for many British backpackers, partly due to the lack of direct flights from the UK.
Tourism Transformation on the Horizon
Change is underway as the Vietnamese government targets Phu Quoc as a key tourism hub. British visitors to Vietnam increased by 20% in 2025, aided by new visa-free entry rules allowing stays of up to 45 days. The government aims to attract 15 million visitors to Phu Quoc by 2030, a 114% rise from 2025. Infrastructure projects include an expanding international airport, a new ferry terminal, and luxury hotels like a W in 2027 and a Ritz-Carlton in 2028.
Developers such as VinGroup and Sun Group have introduced attractions like safari parks and theme parks. Sunset Town, on the southwest coast, features pastel-coloured townhouses, replicas of Rome's Colosseum and Venice's St Mark's Campanile, and nightly Vegas-style water shows. However, much of the island's jungle, farms, and beaches remain untouched, offering a retreat from the development.
Luxury and Local Experiences
For those seeking comfort, the Regent Phu Quoc, opened in 2022, provides luxurious suites and villas with private pools, a spa, and a soft-sand beach. Its restaurants include Oku, serving sushi omakase-style by a former Nobu chef, and a Balearic-style beach club. Guests can snorkel at the An Thoi islands, a chain of 15 islets with coral reefs, via the hotel's private catamaran.
To explore the island's natural beauty, guide Sonny Nguyen leads tours northward through waterfall-dotted jungles to places like Vuon Tieu Phong Vy, a deserted pepper farm, and a honey farm where visitors can hold bee-covered frames amidst papaya and avocado trees. These sites charge no entry fees, emphasizing the island's welcoming spirit.
Cultural Insights and Future Prospects
In Duong Dong, the pastel-coloured Caodaism temple, blending Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism, and Catholicism, offers a quiet retreat near the night market. As the sun sets, neon green lights from fishing boats illuminate the bay, luring squid and preserving traditional ways. Despite upcoming changes, Phu Quoc's essence endures, making it a must-visit for travelers seeking an authentic yet evolving destination.
