Route Nationale 7 Revival: A Gastronomic Road Trip from Paris to the Mediterranean
The Route Nationale 7, stretching 996 kilometres from Paris to Menton on the Côte d'Azur, is enjoying a remarkable resurgence among holidaymakers seeking offbeat France and slow travel experiences. This iconic road, immortalised in Charles Trenet's 1955 song, was the bustling artery for northerners heading south after paid holidays were mandated in 1936. In its 1950s and 1960s heyday, it teemed with petrol stations, traffic jams, and roadside cafes, but fell quiet with the 1970s completion of the Autoroute du Soleil. Today, it's back in vogue, offering a nostalgic and culinary-rich alternative to fast-paced motorways.
A Journey Through Time and Taste
Starting in Paris at Place d'Italie, the RN7 unfolds with subtle charm, marked by red-and-white bornes instead of flashy signs. Unlike America's Route 66, it whispers promises of parasols and pastis through faded ghost signs and Relais Routiers restaurants. Thierry Doillon, a vintage car enthusiast who helped restore a 1950s petrol station, recalls childhood trips in a 2CV: "We'd set out at 3am, and by Lyon, my father needed a break under a tree." This personal touch highlights the road's enduring appeal.
The route passes through picturesque towns like Barbizon, where artists once sought inspiration, and Moulins, home to the historic Hôtel de Paris. This hotel hosted stars from Coco Chanel to Edith Piaf and once held two daily lunch sittings for north- and south-bound travellers. Further south, La Pacaudière's Le Petit Louvre, a coaching inn since the 1500s, and Lapalisse's biennial traffic jam party, Embouteillage, celebrate the road's rich history and nostalgic bottlenecks.
Culinary Delights Along the Highway
Gastronomy is central to the RN7 experience. In Roanne, a hidden gem, Michelin-starred chef Michel Troisgros' Le Central offers dishes like fish broth and volcanic île flottante, kickstarting a gourmet journey. The road's history intertwines with the Michelin Guide, which aided millions with maps and info, featuring legends like Eugénie Brazier and Fernand Point. Artisans like Pierre-Yves at Maison Mure in St Symphorien-de-Lay have even created a cake shaped like the RN7 sign, blending creativity with tradition.
Highlights include the restored Ozo petrol station, a testament to community efforts, and the Vallée de la Gastronomie, pulsing with artisans and winemakers. From Montélimar's nougat to Châteauneuf-du-Pape's historic vineyards, the culinary treats culminate at Michelin-starred La Mère Germaine. The journey south reveals Orange's Théâtre Ancien, Avignon's papal palace, and Aix-en-Provence's Cézanne celebrations, ending in Fréjus with its blend of ancient history and modern Med sparkle.
Embracing Slow Travel and Nostalgia
This road trip offers a unique mix of quiet roads, nostalgia, and diverse landscapes, from plane trees to palm trees. It's a route much travelled, then barely travelled, and now rediscovered by those valuing authenticity over speed. Whether for a short break or a longer holiday, the RN7 provides a memorable escape into France's heritage, perfect for food lovers and history buffs alike.
