First and foremost, the roast beef at Simpson's In The Strand is nothing short of magnificent. Thank goodness for that. A rib of Devon-reared Ruby Red, carved tableside from a gleaming trolley in the Grand Divan, represents culinary theatre at its most exalted. Rivulets of creamy fat run through the meat, which is gently and elegantly bovine. Accompanying it are a billowing Yorkshire pudding, proper gravy served in a metal jug, and crisp-shelled roast potatoes that rival any homemade version. The horseradish is as fierce as a Pictish warrior, adding a bold kick to the dish.
A Historic Institution Reborn
Simpson's has been roasting ribs of beef for the great and not-so-good for nearly two centuries, having occupied its current site since 1904. However, by the dawn of the new millennium, the restaurant had fallen into a state of disrepair, resembling a grande dame reduced to shabby penury, with threadbare silk frocks and pawned jewellery. Thus, the news that Jeremy King, one of the country's finest restaurateurs, was riding to the rescue was warmly welcomed.
Elegant Restoration and Discreet Updates
Today, Simpson's is a beauty once more, a restaurant that purrs rather than roars, with a restoration as painstaking as it is discreet. Old oak panelling has been carefully buffed, banquettes reclad in buttery leather, and the gilding now gleams anew. Service glides smoothly, and conversation thrums, with any excess cacophony absorbed by thick carpets. Small details make all the difference: the thick napkin with a tiny buttonhole for hanging off your shirt, the warmly flattering glow of chandeliers and sidelights, the heft of the cutlery, and carafes of house Burgundy and Claret.
Nostalgic Yet Modern Menu
The menu at Simpson's In The Strand blends nostalgia with contemporary flair. Offerings include oysters, Russian salads, boiled ham with parsley sauce, railway mutton curry, and grilled Barnsley chop, alongside a pie and pudding of the day. On a Thursday, for instance, the steak and kidney pudding features an ephemerally light suet crust and a rich, sticky, unashamedly meaty filling. These are classics executed splendidly.
Standout Dishes and Culinary Highlights
The prawn cocktail arrives in a silver goblet, brimming with proper, comma-curled crustacea, lots of shredded lettuce, and a suitably piquant Marie Rose sauce. Lustily buttered triangles of soft brown bread provide essential ballast. Other highlights include bream, exceptionally cooked in a brown shrimp butter, and, of course, that mighty roast beef. For dessert, options like crumbles, possets, and Trinity burnt cream round out the experience. This is old-school eating with a thoroughly modern grin, showcasing the best of British cuisine in one of London's most handsome rooms.
An old classic has been reborn, and, dare I say it, she's better than she's ever been before. Prices average around £50 per head, making it a worthwhile splurge for a memorable dining experience in the heart of London.
