A Wind in the Willows Weekend: Stylish B&B in the Chilterns
Taking a leaf out of Kenneth Grahame's beloved book, a writer embarks on a few days getting lost among the woods and riverside villages of Oxfordshire and Berkshire. This journey offers a perfect base for a Wind in the Willows-inspired weekend, blending literary nostalgia with modern comforts.
Exploring Grahame's Stomping Ground
Strolling through a deep tangle of beech trees after a long drive, one can't help but recall the scene in Grahame's wistful story where Mole gets lost in the Wild Wood. The area, close to suburbia yet wrinkled with pockets of wildness, evokes a similar wonder. On a spring day with elastic light and daffodils brightening muddy lanes, the pull of a cosy burrow becomes irresistible as dusk falls and smoke drifts from nearby cottages.
The accommodation, Bonni B&B in Hill Bottom, is run by Koo and Denny Akers. It's a spin-off from their cabin business, Bonni Outbuildings, which they launched during the pandemic. These corrugated cabins in mint, moss, and terracotta shades have been used as artist studios, yoga shalas, and even golf-simulator rooms. The B&B, located above a smart timber garage, mirrors the cabins' fittings and furnishings, offering a try-before-you-buy experience for potential buyers.
Stylish Base for a Getaway
Technically a one-bed apartment, the B&B features an open-plan kitchen and living room, a shower room with underfloor heating, and a king-size bed below a round window. Painted in clotted cream, terracotta, and powder blue, with details like white tulips and vintage salvage store items, it exudes cosiness. The star feature is the shower with bottle green corrugated panelling. Guests can pre-order a DIY breakfast, such as avocado on toast with smoked salmon and poached egg, enjoyed while gazing at morning mist.
Once the mist lifts, exploration begins. In summer, visitors follow Grahame and Jerome K Jerome's leads by messing about on the river with paddleboards or hired boats, or venturing to Oxford, Windsor, and London via nearby trains. Koo and Denny, both locals, provide insider tips, including borrowing bikes for a gentle pedal to Whitchurch-on-Thames.
Cycling and Local Discoveries
A 10-minute downhill ride leads to Whitchurch-on-Thames, where the Modern Artists Gallery showcases gilded paintings by Alice Cescatti. Owner Peggy Brodie shares stories of a nearby farmhouse where the Womad music festival originated. Detouring east, one passes alpaca-nibbled fields and red kites circling overhead before reaching Lin's Veg Shed, offering fresh vegetables grown steps away.
Cycling past the Greyhound pub and over the river into Pangbourne, Grahame's former home—still a private house—evokes picnic-loving Ratty with its cheese shop, bakery, and Italian deli. After returning the bike, a riverside walk through the Goring Gap follows the Ridgeway, Britain's oldest road, past brick and flint cottages, ancient churches, and historic pubs.
Riverside Delights and Evening Serenity
Hunger strikes near The Swan at Streatley, Pierreponts cafe, and the Goring Grocer, but back at Bonni B&B, a pre-ordered Riverford recipe-box meal awaits—a dish of romesco chickpeas with smoky paprika and medita cheese. As dusk falls, the journey back includes views of the Gatehampton Viaduct and a tunnel-like holloway leading to the B&B.
In The Wind in the Willows, Ratty speaks of the Wide World beyond the Wild Wood, a place he'd never venture. Similarly, this bosky corner of the Chilterns offers such contentment that one might not want to leave the following morning. The trip, provided by Bonni Outbuildings, includes doubles from £150 B&B, breakfast kits at £15 per person, Riverford dinner boxes from £15 for two, and bike or paddleboard hires at £30 per day.
